The 11 talking points of Paris Fashion Week


The 11 talking points of Paris Fashion Week

Stormtroopers, tin foil and a tribute to Sonia Rykiel – Frankie Graddon has your Paris Fashion Week cheat sheet

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Stormtroopers, tin foil and a tribute to Sonia Rykiel – Frankie Graddon has your Paris Fashion Week cheat sheet

  • YSL is back

    This season marked the first collection for Yves Saint Laurent under the creative direction of Anthony Vaccarello. Previously helmed by Hedi Slimane who controversially dropped the “Yves” from Yves Saint Laurent, Vaccarello made the decision to reinstated the 55-year-old fashion house with its original name. As for the clothes – leather, lace, black and lots of nipples. 

    Photo: Polly Knight

  • Dior made a feminist statement 

    After the departure of Raf Simons, Maria Grazia Chiuri took over the helm of Christian Dior making her the first ever female creative director of the brand. Her debut collection riffed off traditional fencing outfits as well as plenty of romantic dresses,  but the biggest statement came when a model took to the catwalk wearing a T-shirt emblazoned with the words “We Should All Be Feminists.” Author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie whos TEDx talk on feminism has had over three million view on Youtube, was in the audience.

  • Paris paid tribute to Sonia Rykiel 

    Famed for her colourful knitwear and pioneering left bank chic, Sonia Rykiel has been one of Frances’ best loved fashion designers since she founded her brand during the sixties. In August she died aged 86. By way of tribute, the spring 2017 Sonia Rykiel show was dedicated to the late designer. Under the creative direction of Julie de Libran (who has headed the brand since 2014) models had their hair styled into frizzy curls and make-up artist Lisa Eldridge gave them smudged eyeliner to mimic that of Rykiel. The show started with a line up of jumpers which spelled out RYKIEL FOREVER.

  • Karl, I am your father

    Traditionally fashion and technology have had a bumpy relationship but Karl Lagerfeld set out to remedy this with his tech extravaganza of a Chanel show on Tuesday morning. The Grand Palais in Paris was transformed into Chanel Data Centre complete with shiny circuit boards, multi coloured wires and Chanel robots. The stormtrooper-esque bots opened the show in matching tweed skirt suits followed by legions of big-name models dressed in bouclé jackets and tweedy skirts accessorised with laptops cases and baseball caps worn to the side. So, beyond the flashing lights has one of the oldest fashion houses finally embraced the digital world? The fact that there are no plans to make it available online would suggest actually not. 

  • Stella McCartney cheered everyone up 

    For all their elegance and grace on the catwalk, supermodels can’t dance – or so the rumour goes. However, Stella McCartney disproved this on Monday when her catwalk show ended with a dance off to the sheer delight of the watching crowd. Models jived down the runway wearing McCartney’s spring collection which consisted of paper-bag-waisted trousers and oversized shirts. T-shirts were printed with the slogans “No Leather” and “No Fur” nodding to the designer’s commitment to animal rights. She also previewed her menswear collection which will be launching next year. 

  • Everyone is wearing “re-worked” shirts

    Worn backwards, frontwards, sidewards or off-the-shoulder, shirts have officially gone awol. Whilst I shan’t advice the current trend for gigantic cuffs, I can recommend trying the slightly skewiff look with this number from Zara. 

  • Balenciaga took the piss again

    From the man who gave us the £185 DHL T-shirt, came this season’s offering from Balenciaga. Spandex thigh-boots, rubber ponchos, handbags fashioned out of the bags you buy a duvet in – fashion’s current fascination, Demna Gvasalia, was at it again. Expect to see 70’s floral dresses and shoulder pads plastered all over the glossies soon. Kim Kardashian was the only celebrity in attendance. She was wearing an off-the-shoulder trench coat which looked as uncomfortable as it sounds.

  • Louis Vuitton introduced the "it" phone case

    You’d be forgiven for thinking that it is all about the latest “it” bag in fashion. Forgiven but wrong, because it is in fact all about the latest “it” phone case as demonstrated by Louis Vuitton. Yesterday Nicolas Ghesquière debuted the Petite Malle phone case during the Vuitton show, complete with traditional LV monogram and key ring attachment. The show also boasted the starriest front row with Michelle Williams, Catherine Deneuve, Jennifer Connelly, Alicia Vikander, and Miranda Kerr in attendance. 

  • Tin foil was on the frow

    After being shunned in favour of the under-21s at the Dolce and Gabbana show in Milan, editors were then left to freeze on the front row at Givenchy in Paris. The show took place outside in the Jardin des Plantes where temperatures reached a chilly eight degrees. The solution? To wrap themselves in tin foil sheets and see who could style it best. 

    Photo: Richard Gray

  • Swimming caps are a thing

    Remember those hideous days of yanking on a rubber swimming cap? Well, they happen to be in fashion right now so get your talcum powder at the ready. First seen at Maison Margiela who did pastel versions with zig-zag edges, they were then given a retro spin at Miu Miu who went full on Nan with flowers caps in bright colours. Fashion, eh?

  • We’ve reached peak tiny bag

    This fashion season has provided an engaging game of “how small can a small bag get”. We’ve had admirable attempts from New York and Milan, but first prize goes to Pairs with Chloe’s new Nile bag. Too small to fit a sneeze inside. 

    Photo: Anna Murphy

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